Square & Fair

The VDV Paratroopers had all disappeared and all the military vehicles and police that had been outside Red Square were now replaced with souvenir t-shirt and Russian doll sellers. The Square was as impressive as these things should be and was a lot more complicated than I had realised. As well as the Kremlin wall and Lenin’s mausoleum (which is actually a small, squat structure) along one side, there is a massive department store (GUM) facing it. The other two sides are taken up by St Basil’s Cathedral and another church. It was a hot and hazy day and walking across the square was like walking across a giant frying pan. St Basil’s spires were described by Harry and Maisie as reminding them of:

• spiky dragons tail
• christmas crackers
• buddhas head
• squeezed out toothpaste
• wizard’s hat
• durian fruit
• two pineapples
• jackfruit
• hot air balloon

All of those descriptions were very apt. The building is certainly iconic and is even a bit preposterous.

After being in the heat we escaped into the GUM department store. The initials stand for State Department Store, but I don’t think old Lenin opposite would find Versace and Louis Vuitton to be very stately. The building itself is lovely and looks like a bigger, posher Covent Garden with three main galleries over four floors, spanned with wrought iron bridges that are reminiscent of Venice. We had a meal on one of the bridges and looked down on the high end shops that were devoid of customers. Harry was particularly impressed with the vintage cars that were on display.

We are now back in the hotel, have checked out and waiting in the cafe for a taxi to take us to the train station. Two nights on the train should bring us to Cologne and then back home!